Toshiba 110cs Rip...

[Wappynutter]

Damn Mark, I know how that feels. I'm unsure how to proceed with the 110 without removing chips and connectors where the corrosion hides. Keyboard connector is the worse I think, along with the controller.
Screen has died from capacitor problems too I'm sure. The 110 boots sort of, flashing hdd light, keyboard light then hangs. No external keyboard or monitor works. Wondering if a couple of caps on the power rails have failed too. There's a 100uf smd cap and a 56uf through hole cap that could be suspect.
My fdd doesn't show signs of life either but that has 2 caps and a tantalum sat on it.
Hope you can clean and salvage the 100ct, would be a shame to see it bite the dust.
Good luck.

 

[mark0x01]

They could always be given a second chance at life and become a static museum exhibit.

Mine served as a useful serial terminal. It rorked very well with having a real rs232 port and being smaller than a laptop.

 

[Wappynutter]

So... still picking away at the 110ct and 210cs after both suddenly stopped working.
Cleaned and messed about with the 110 and got it working... yay!... Well, sort of..
I'd never gotten the lcd screen working before so recapped the lcd powerboard as I noticed gunk and funky cap leg solder.

Motherboard out, rechecked corrosion, cleaned out veers, checked them and rebuilt it again.

Plugged the screen in and ta-da!..
My problem now is what does this mean??
It did this on both machines before they stopped working.
Has the 5.20 bios become corrupt? Is it a sign of still more corrosion?
I have attached an external keyboard as the wafer thin flexi on the internal keyboard is beyond repair really but all I get on the ps2 keyboard is all 3 led's flash,( caps, scroll and num lock), then nothing. I've reflowed the ps2 keyboard connector pins but think I may need to check flexi cable connector pins for continuity incase I have trace damage. I read that the external ps2 connector runs through the onboard keyboard connector and can be temperamental.
----‐-‐-------------
Still working on the 210cs, swapping caps, cleaning veers etc..


and may have made progress on that one too. Downside is I recapped the dstn powerboard but shortly before it stopped working while displaying the same message I have on the 110ct, the dstn started to flash and flicker before going black. I've taken a look and need to recap 6 smd capacitors I think.

It's either failed caps on the screen or the backlight blown. I have tried using a torch to see anything but it's just black so I'll cap it first I think. Not got any smd replacements so may be small through hole caps used and lay flat. Kapton tape will stop any shorts for testing I'm sure..
Thanks for any input as I try and save these old Toshiba classics.

 

[3lectr1c]

great persistence!

The purple caps are solid polymer, not electrolytic. They can’t leak and very rarely fail. If you see corrosion around one, it came from somewhere else. Swapping out the real electrolytics is a good move though.

 

[Wappynutter]

The ones I swapped out had leaked out the bottom. Round the edges and legs.. I doubted they had leaked but something had upset them enough to get gunky etc.. I'm guessing the battery corrosion may have helped them go funky..

 

[3lectr1c]

It had to have come from elsewhere, there is no liquid in those capacitors to leak. Failed? Maybe? You'd need a tester. But they can't leak.

 

[Wappynutter]

I stuck them in the cheap tester I have. Slightly higher than rated, maybe 10-20%, esr was up and down but this changed everytime I run a test. Battery was good on the tester but it is the usual cheap tester. I just think battery gunk messed them up. Still unsure of that message on screen. I'm just hoping I can get them to at least function everytime I boot them up and display a bios at least.

 

[3lectr1c]

next step might be to actually try a BIOS update. Do you have a working floppy drive?

 

[Wappynutter]

Yes and no... lol.. it tries but the belt is stretched and misshapen. I've fit a new belt but it isn't right and needs doctoring. Thinking of dropping the old belt in boiling water to see if it will reshape and work again and refit that. The new belt is too thick and comes off after a short while. I have the bios update and a working base unit with a floppy drive to create a bios boot disc. I'll work on the floppy unit belt and see how it goes.
Thanks for the input.

 

[Wappynutter]

Just sharing these gunky legged chips.
I know the purple ones shouldn't leak but something upset them and caused corrosion and juice under them.
Anyway I changed them out and now the 210cs does this thing that resembles a start up.
It gives me power on light, after a seek type pause it starts the hdd power up but as I still have no display, no keyboard and only a broken clunky hdd I cannot tell what it's doing.
What I did find was 2 broken wires on the display harness from the graphics board. The wires go to the variable brightness wheel via the screen. I've swapped the harness but still no joy so the replacement harness might be wired different or it is them smd capacitors on the screen as mentioned before.
As for the original fdd belt problem, being damaged and misshapen I dropped it in boiling water. Unfortunately after it had cooled it fell apart all rotten and brittle.

I'll keep picking away at these until I get a boot to bios and hdd seek. Things we do to play old games and relive our youths.. lol.. oh, and learning new skills along the way.
Thanks for any input vcf community..

 

[GiGaBiTe]

Those purple Sanyos are awful. Even if they don't leak, they fail internally, usually by lost capacitance or high ESR. Sometimes they become electrically leaky, the polymer types are no better.